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Thread: Enable/Disable Pages - Suddenly not working

  1. #1

    Enable/Disable Pages - Suddenly not working

    Hi,

    I have a non 'S' CPU 3500 and 3400 set up which has been working perfectly for many years.

    The 'Enable/Disable pages' function on the 3400 has suddenly stopped working. If I set a number of the pages to enable and some to disable on the [EFIS] > [Settings] > [More] menu and then press Save, all is fine whilst the system is powered on and I can scroll through the relevant selected pages.

    If however I power down the system at the end of the flight, when I next turn everything on, the 3400 screen locks onto a single page and the Page button will not scroll through any pages. When I access the Enable/Disable page function, all pages have been disabled with the exception of one of them (Page number 7). I can reset this whilst still powered up, but then all resets to a single page when I power down again.

    The 3500 works perfectly, only effecting the 3400. I have reloaded the software.

    Grateful for any help.

  2. #2
    Rob Hickman
    Advanced Flight Systems Inc.

  3. #3
    You need to change the clock battery
    Rob Hickman
    Advanced Flight Systems Inc.

  4. #4
    Hi,
    I have just experienced EXACTLY the same problem with my 3500 ( non "S" CPU ). The 3500 has worked flawlessly up till this point and it just came out of the blue. At first I thought someone had been playing with the configuration page. I did observe the clock was all wrong however. Glad to hear what the fix is. Assuming all batteries will age, it might be a good "troubleshooting" tip for the manual.
    Thanks for the post and for the fix. John.
    Last edited by Jbaynes; 01-10-2015 at 03:02 AM.

  5. #5
    Hi Rob,
    I can only source CR 1225 batteries not the BR1225 that you call for. Is the CR range ok to use? Is there a difference?
    Last edited by Jbaynes; 01-14-2015 at 01:22 AM.

  6. #6
    Looks like you can also use the CR
    Rob Hickman
    Advanced Flight Systems Inc.

  7. #7
    Funny thing, but when the batteries arrived, in blister packs and commercially labeled as CR, I opened it and read the back of the battery. It was stamped BR. Confusing for consumers. I guess there's no real difference.

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Richmond, VA, USA
    Posts
    7
    This thread solved a mystery with my "new" AFS 3500-3400 setup. Very helpful, thanks! Off to find some CR/BR1225s.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Richmond, VA, USA
    Posts
    7
    For what it's worth, guy at the battery store said the BR1225 is preferable, as it's a low-discharge unit that's designed for lengthy backup duty. The CR1225 "will work fine but won't last nearly as long." So, like the kids on South Park, I learned something today!

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Richmond, VA, USA
    Posts
    7
    So I had a eureka moment while changing the batteries in my AFS 3500 and 3400 boxes. The batteries are held in with a little clip and are accessible through a hole on the top of the unit, under a screwed-on cover. Unfortunately, the clip holds the battery tightly, the hole is small, and the clipped-in battery arrangement is surrounded by little electrical gizmos that are dying to break. Meanwhile, if you drop the battery, it can go scurrying into the far corners of the box, which can't be good. It's sort of like playing that old game "Operation."

    The instructions suggest grasping the battery with needle-nose pliers wrapped in tape, and putting a piece of paper around the inside of the hole to keep the battery from getting loose. The paper is a good idea. But I think tape-wrapped needle nose pliers are too large.

    The low weight of the battery is the key factor in your favor. I found a small metal rod and put a very small glob of 3M VHB tape on the end of it. (That VHB stuff is amazing.)
    I then used small masking-tape-wrapped bent-nose pliers to *carefully* and *gently* lift the retaining clip up a little bit, while gently harpooning the battery with the gooey VHB blob on the rod. The battery came right out and showed no interesting in doing anything other than sticking to the VHB blob and thus the metal rod. A new battery can be inserted in precisely the same way -- once it's under that metal clip, the VHB can be detached with no problem.

    Just thought I would share this because it took me a while to figure it out.

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